Joo Chiat is known for its multicultural heritage. In the early 20th century, Peranakan and Eurasian families moved into Joo Chiat alongside the Chinese, Malay and Indian residents. Country houses and seaside bungalows built by the wealthy were a common sight, in addition to a number of villages – before reclamation, the shore was along East Coast Road. Philip Chew’s A Penniless Boy details the life and times of Chew Joo Chiat, a wealthy philanthropist who gave his name to the district, after he donated large tracts of land for public use. Another book that is centred around the precinct and its heritage is Sherlock Sam and the Missing Heirloom in Katong. It is the first title in the wildly successful Sherlock Sam series of children's books by A.J. Low.
Joo Chiat also has some surprising literary connections through its past residents. The Union Times 南洋总汇新报, a Chinese language newspaper published in Singapore from 1908 to 1946, is a precursor to the present-day Chinese language newspaper, Lianhe Zaobao. Its editor, Liang Xian Fan, who hailed from Guangdong, China, lived at 18 Joo Chiat Road. Perhaps the most famous Singapore composer, Zubir Said, composer of our national anthem, lived in a walk-up apartment in Joo Chiat Place.
The precinct is now home to a growing number of bookshops such as City Book Room and Woods in the Books, both participating in Indie Bookshop Day. Other bookshops include Spasi at Joo Chiat Place, Owl Books at Joo Chiat Road, English Islamic Bookshop at Onan Road, and the venerable Haji Hashim Bookstore at Joo Chiat Complex. Much-loved bookshops that have closed relatively recently in the nearby areas include Jodhi Book Store (closed in 2019) at Marine Terrace and Katong News Agency (closed in 2022) at Tanjong Katong Road.
Alongside the resurgence of bookshops in Joo Chiat is the rise in record stores selling analogue music media such as vinyl records and audio tapes. This, along with the rise in cafes and unique shops that celebrate Singapore creatives and heritage, speak to the kind of retail experiences that nourish the senses as well as the mind.
The Route: Start at Marine Parade MRT Station
From Marine Parade Station, walk along Marine Parade Road towards Joo Chiat Road. Turn left into Joo Chiat Road. Walk along this road, past the East Coast Road junction, to reach City Book Room, an independent bookshop hidden among the SOHO apartments of The Modules. To enter City Book Room you’ll have to dial in the unit number ‘0302’ on the intercom and wait for the bookseller to buzz you up. Notice that it's not City "Book Shop" but "Book Room"; a homely room full of books within Joo Chiat, inviting you to sample both Chinese and English books touching on local subjects, gender issues and politics. For lighter reading, the bookshop also offers graphic novels and unusual travel books, magazines and zines.
After that, walk back along Joo Chiat Road the same way you came. But this time, perhaps sample some of what is on offer at the nearby cafes such as Humble Origins with its exclusive selection of beans from small farms in Myanmar. Heartware Store & Gallery just round the corner has stickers, postcards, art prints and curated works by independent artists. Cherry Lane Records, right under City Book Room, sells classic rock, jazz and Asian music.
When you’re ready to head to the next bookshop on the crawl, walk towards East Coast Road to reach Woods in the Books.
The name "Woods in the Books" pays homage to the physical book: paper being made from wood. With its characteristic hand-painted decoration and impressive array of illustrated works, Woods in the Books is a visual treat. Much like a walk in the woods, there is something about wending one’s way among the shelves here that can feel calming and centering, like a mental reset. Large illustrated works, drawn by human hands are meant to be held and perused in person, and Woods in the Books provides this in spades.
Right next to the bookshop is Chin Mee Chin Confectionery, a heritage café that has operated at the same address for slightly more than a century. Today, ‘CMC’ is a landmark on East Coast Road with its signature breakfast toast sets, pastries, Eurasian sugee cakes, and Hainanese-style coffee. Not to be missed.
Here ends the short bookshop crawl in Joo Chiat-Katong, but we’re certain you will come back to this charming neighbourhood very soon.
